Thursday, 7 March 2013

Book of Kells, Archeology Museum, and a museum for Lephrechauns



Today was another great day in Dublin.  Nate has come down with some illness, so I was on my own today.  The weather was rainy, but hey, it’s Ireland, so that is to be expected.  They say that it only rains twice a week in Ireland: for three days the first time and for four days the second.  But Dublin is one of those rare cities that rain has no negative effect on.  In fact, the rain seemed to give Dublin a certain poetic element.  Today I went by the statue of James Joyce, which depicts him dressed in a coat and tails, top hat and cane.  His spectacled face smiling with a big grin.  I am quite the fan of the statue because it makes him look so very dapper.

After that I saw the Famine Memorial monument by the quay and crossed over the River Liffey and went to Trinity College to view the Book of Kells.  It is an ancient illuminated book of the bible, dating back to around 800 AD.  It is believed to have originated on the island of Iona, near Scotland, but it was brought to the Abbey of Kells in County Meath, Ireland for safe keeping after Iona was attacked by Viking raiders.  Unfortunately, the actual book was not on display, but I did see a facsimile and saw a neat exhibit on the history of the manuscripts and how it was made.

After that, I walked up Grafton Street to St. Stephens Green, a large park.  This is where Ireland’s beauty shown through.  Even in winter, the park was extraordinarily green.  I took some time to walk down the paths among the ponds, watching the water fowl. 

After that, I went to The National Museum of Archeology.  It had some very interesting exhibits showcasing finds from Ireland’s Celtic prehistory through the middle ages.  It also displayed the bog men, victims of human sacrifice that had been thrown into the peat bogs, which had preserved them remarkably well.  When discovered by peat diggers, these bodies still had their facial hair and internal organs relatively undamaged.

After that, I had lunch.  I then went to Dublinia, a museum dedicated to Dublin’s Viking origin.  Founded as a camp for Viking raiders and traders to winter their ships, it developed into an important Scandinavian trading post.  The name comes from a large body of tidal water, called “Dubh Lin” or dark water in Irish Gaelic.  The exhibition was very well put together.

After that I wandered among the shops for a while before going to the National Leprechaun Museum.  This museum was about Irish folklore, legends, and mythology.  The guided tour took visitors through creative and interactive exhibits, such as a “giant room” which puts them at the scale of Leprechauns (1/3 the size of humans) among furniture built for giants (humans are only 1/3 the size of the latter).  The guide also told us about the important differences between the typical representation of fairies and Irish faeries, or sidhe (pronounced shee).  In the words of our tour guide, Irish fairies are “badass” and indistinguishable from humans in appearance, and live in an underground parallel world.  She also told us one of the many stories of  Cú Chulainn, the greatest hero of Irish mythology.

After that, I happily walked through the legendary Dublin rain.  Tonight I plan on going to see some live music.

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